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Yes, under the right conditions, and those conditions are the reason most home attempts fail. The product is rarely the problem. How it is used almost always is.
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Pet
Enzyme cleaners contain biological catalysts that break down the organic compounds producing the odour — uric acid crystals, urea and the bacterial by-products around them. This is fundamentally different from a masking product, which adds fragrance over the top, and from an oxidiser, which attacks colour. Enzymes remove the source. That is why they work on odour that other approaches only cover.
Enzymes are living chemistry and they need time to work — typically fifteen minutes minimum and often much longer on older deposits. Sprayed on and blotted up after two minutes, they have barely started. This single mistake accounts for most failed home treatments. The area also has to stay damp during that period, since enzymes are inactive in a dry environment, which is why covering a treated area with plastic while it dwells improves the result significantly.
A surface spray reaches the top of the pile. The deposit is at the backing, in the pad and sometimes in the subfloor. The product has to be applied in enough volume to reach the same depth the urine did, which for an old dog spot means considerably more than a trigger bottle delivers. This is the second most common failure: correct product, correct dwell time, applied to the wrong depth.
Prior treatment with a strong oxidiser or a high-pH cleaner can denature enzymes on contact, so a spot treated repeatedly with supermarket products sometimes responds poorly to enzyme work afterwards. Heat has the same effect, which is why hot water extraction over an untreated urine spot is a mistake. And where contamination is in the pad, no amount of carpet-side enzyme treatment fixes it, because the product cannot reach and stay in contact with the deposit long enough to matter.
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